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Surrounded by three impressive volcanoes, Lake Atitlán is a stunning destination in the heart of Guatemala’s highlands. Contrary to what most travelers are taught to believe, Lake Atitlán is not a singular destination, but rather a massive lake with around a dozen small towns scattered around its perimeter. Each town has its own unique personality to it, making the lake a melting pot destination for travelers with varying interests, budgets, and styles.
Lake Atitlan itself is a massive, high-elevation crater lake resting at an altitude of 1,562 meters (5,125 feet). It also happens to be the deepest lake in Central America with a depth of 340 meters (1,120 feet). It’s ranked one of the most beautiful lakes in the world and is considered sacred by the local Maya people.
Guatemala’s indigenous population is widespread and around Lake Atitlán you’ll predominately encounter local people from Tz’utujil and Kaqchikel groups. I urge you to take the time while visiting to engage with the locals, as they are truly what gives the lake part of its magical effect with their unique cultural style, customs, food, and immeasurable depth of knowledge!
Although each village on Lake Atitlán offers a world of opportunity and unique charm, there are a few that stand out and become priority stops for travelers including myself: Panajachel, Santa Cruz, San Marcos, San Juan, and San Pedro. I recommend allocating at least 3-5 days in your Guatemala travel itinerary for Lake Atitlán, as you’ll be certain to want to embrace a couple of days in some towns, while others make the perfect afternoon trip.
CURRENCY
The currency used in Guatemala is the Guatemalan Quetzal (GTQ) and the current exchange rate as of January 2023 is $1 USD = 7.85Q.
DAILY BUDGET
Guatemala is one of the most budget-friendly countries in the Americas for travelers, however costs can still accumulate quickly. On average, a budget traveler can expect to spend around $40-$50 USD per day while still managing to cross off the must-hit destinations and activities.
TRANSPORTATION
Since the nearest airport to Lake Atitlán is La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City, most travelers make the short journey over after spending some time in Antigua which is just 45 minutes outside the capital. The easiest way to get to Lake Atitlán from Antigua is by public bus, shuttle, or private transfer. I booked a shuttle for 115Q (about $15 USD) with Roadrunner Guatemala, who offered a local partnership discount due to my stay at Ojalá.
To travel between towns on Lake Atitlán, you’ll have to catch a Lancha (water taxi) from the town’s main dock. They generally run from 7:00am to 7:00pm, making stops along the way from one end of the lake to the other. Lancha fares can be negotiated, but typically cost about 15Q-25Q (about $2-3 USD) per ride and you’ll pay the driver upon arrival. You can find out more about the Lake Atitlán boat schedule and prices here.
COUNTRY-WIDE LGBTQ+ RIGHTS & PUBLIC OPINION
Guatemala is less progressive when it comes to LGBTQ+ rights, legal protection, and social acceptance compared to its Latin American counterparts. While there are laws in place legalizing homosexuality and protecting certain rights of the community, gay marriage remains unrecognized by law and social acceptance generally sways on the lesser side.
Everything considered, I would not deter LGBTQ+ travelers from visiting Guatemala. My personal experiences in the country were very positive and I even had the pleasure of befriending other LGBTQ+ travelers along my route! You can read and learn more about the progress of LGBTQ+ rights in Guatemala and around the world on Equaldex.
PANAJACHEL
Panajachel, also called Pana for short, is the largest and busiest lakeside town located on the northern shore, serving as the gateway to the smaller villages. It’ll be your first stop when visiting Lake Atitlán and you’ll immediately sense its charm when walking or driving through the main street. Calle Santander is lined with artisan stalls selling an abundance of handicrafts, textiles, and fresh produce, as well as plentiful and unique family restaurants and cafés. Rather than immediately making your way to one of the smaller lakeside villages upon arriving, I recommend spending a night or two in Pana to embrace the variety of cultural experiences and outdoor activities in town.
WHERE TO STAY:
SELINA OR DREAMBOAT
Despite being the largest town on the lake, Panajachel is very walkable and most hostels are all but a few blocks from the main street and Lancha docks. There are a handful of low-cost, high-quality hostel options in town, but a couple of the backpacker favorites are Selina and Dreamboat. As always, I suggest browsing Hostelworld to compare hostel properties and read reviews from other travelers to find the one that best suits your style and preferences.
WHAT TO DO:
WALK CALLE SANTANDER
The central street is truly one of the cultural hearts in Pana, adorned with artisan stalls selling goods such as purses, clothing, jewelry, artwork, pottery, and more! It’s also one of the best places in Guatemala to shop for souvenirs, as you’ll find some of the lowest prices and widest selection compared to other tourist destinations around the country. It is common to bargain when shopping, however do keep in mind that the artisans craft intricate, handmade goods with cultural significance, so respect is a key factor at play.
SHOP AT THE PACAS
If you like thrifting, then you’ll certainly need to do some shopping at the Paca shops around Panajachel. “Paca” is the term used to describe the second-hand clothing shops in Guatemala, which get their inventory from bales shipped overseas. You can purchase articles of clothing for as little as $1 or $2 USD and might even be lucky to stop in on a day with an additional running deal.
Thrifting is a great way to easily and guilt-free add and discard items in your backpacking wardrobe when it’s time for a change. I found an adorable dress that was just my size at a Paca for just $7 and it’s now one of my backpacking wardrobe staples!
VISIT THE MARKETS
Where artisan stalls and pacas make great stops for souvenirs and handmade goods, the markets in Guatemala are great for finding fresh, local food without the markup price you’ll encounter at stores and while directly supporting community members. The Municipal Market in Panajachel is open daily and you’ll find an impressive selection of fruits, vegetables, nuts, meats, and even flowers. It’s located right on the corner of Parque Centro America and is easy to spot–just look for the yellow, two-story building!
If you have more time in your schedule, consider a day trip to Chichicastenango– the largest market in Guatemala! To get there, you can catch a chicken bus with 2 transfers for the ultimate Guatemalan experience, costing just under $2 USD and taking roughly an hour and 45 minutes each way. I didn’t make the journey out that way, but heard nothing but amazing stories from travelers who had.
GRAB A CUP OF COFFEE
Guatemala is the second largest coffee producer in Central America and as a coffee aficionada myself, of course I highly recommend trying out a few local shops throughout your stay. I visited Café Loco Coffee with my fellow travel creator friend and Pana expat, Kasey, and had a rich latte with a quaint atmosphere. Other highly rated coffee shops in Panajachel are Crossroads Café, The Little Spoon, and Pana Café.
VISIT THE ATITLÁN NATURE RESERVE
If you’re more of the outdoorsy type, a visit to the local reserve is another highly regarded activity that may be a worthwhile option. It’s open from 8:00am to 5:00pm daily and features attractions such as cablebikes, waterfalls, ziplining, hanging bridges, and a butterfly reserve. You can read more about attraction details and pricing on the reserve’s official website.
PLAY TRIVIA AT THE LITTLE SPOON
To ease into the nightlife scene in Panajachel, you can stop along Calle Santander to the vibrant coffee shop-restaurant-bar combo space on Thursday nights from 7:00pm to 8:30pm for trivia! It costs just 15Q (about $2) to participate and includes food/drink specials and a chance at cash prizes.
EXPLORE LOCAL NIGHTLIFE
San Pedro’s nightlife scene might precede that of Panajachel, however there’s still quite a few spots in town that are great for late night drinks and live music. I’m personally more of an early bird than night owl, so opted out of the nightlife experiences, however highly rated and talked about spots worth checking out are Azul Rosa, Simoneta Mixology Cantina, Circus Bar, and La Palapa.
SANTA CRUZ LA LAGUNA
There’s a unique duality to Santa Cruz which made it one of my favorite stops not only on Lake Atitlán, but along my Guatemala travel route altogether. Although it’s a smaller, quieter village compared to others, its blend of natural beauty and indigenous culture sets it apart. Along the waterfront, you’ll find a couple hostels, resorts, shops, and restaurants with an overall lively atmosphere, and uphill you’ll encounter the residential area where most of the local indigenous people gather.
I made the journey directly from Antigua, through Panajachel, to Santa Cruz the day after trekking Volcán Acatenango and found it the perfect place to relax and recharge. Although I stayed for an extended period of two weeks, I’d recommend staying for a sweet spot of 2-4 nights to embrace the tranquility, adventure, and rich culture throughout this corner of the lake.
WHERE TO STAY:
FREE CERVEZA
Situated right on the lake with its own private dock, Free Cerveza is a unique glamping hostel with a friendly staff, family atmosphere, and nearly all the features you could need or want. They have various private and shared accommodation options to cater to all types of travelers along with free daily activities run by their volunteers.
Living up to the hostel name, Free Cerveza gives out free beer from 5:00pm to 7:00pm every night when you sign up for their family dinner. This time is a great way to relax after an activity-filled day and get to know other travelers over a conversation or game of beer pong! I enjoyed my stay here and would happily return again!
WHAT TO DO:
GO PADDLEBOARDING
Stand Up Paddleboarding (SUP) is one of the most popular activities around Lake Atitlán and a unique way to appreciate its spectacular views. SUP can be a more costly activity as it's priced by the hour, however staying at Free Cerveza will get you free, unlimited usage of SUPs, kayaks, and inner tubes throughout your stay.
For calm waters and a truly magical start to your morning, be sure to sign up for Free Cerveza’s Sunrise SUP group activity– this was one of my favorite memories from my time on the lake and is free for guests!
HIKE AT SUNRISE
Morning activities on Lake Atitlán are popular for a reason. The views at sunrise are extraordinary as the water reflects the vibrant skies and, after a brisk hike up the side of one of the towering hills, you can even catch Volcán Fuego erupting in the distance. This is another great way to get involved with your hostel and meet other adventurous travelers through a free group tour.
You can view a fully detailed list of activities and schedule of upcoming events at Free Cerveza here!
EAT AT CAFÉ SABOR CRUCEÑO
Take a 15-minute scenic walk or a quick tuk tuk ride uphill into the heart of Santa Cruz! Tucked inside the hard-to-miss CECAP building you’ll encounter Café Sabor Cuceño and arguably the most breathtaking view of Lake Atitlán.
The restaurant is a non-profit organization run by local culinary students working to improve economic empowerment in Santa Cruz. Their menu accommodates various cravings and appetites and is accompanied by a beautiful presentation. I ordered their traditional breakfast plate which came with eggs, cheese, fried plantains, and beans served with housemade tomato sauce, corn salad, and fresh tortillas for just 50Q (about $6.50 USD).
LEARN AT SANTA CRUZ SPANISH SCHOOL
If you want to brush up on your language skills while in Guatemala, the school in Santa Cruz is one of the highest rated in Lake Atitlán and overlooks the stunning blue abyss. My bachelor’s in Spanish prepared me well for this backpacking trip, however you can read first-hand reviews from other travelers who have studied at SCSS here.
JOIN OPEN MIC NIGHT
La Iguana Perdida is the other hostel in town and a great place to float over to after family dinner at Free Cerveza. Every Wednesday they host an open mic night, where even non-hostel guests can come for drinks, hangout in the hammocks, shoot some pool, or step behind the mic to demonstrate their musicianship and/or poetry skills. This humble and cozy gathering space won my heart the first time I joined as they have a large LGBTQ+ pride flag on display in the center of their main dining area.
SAN MARCOS LA LAGUNA
With a reputation as the mystical, hippie town on Lake Atitlán, San Marcos attracts a unique and highly spiritual crowd. The village town is very small–it takes just about a 10-minute walk to get from one end of the main street to the other. It’s also full of character with its abundance of textile shops, tattoo parlors, vegan kitchens, and bulletin boards filled with flyers for retreats, medicinal ceremonies, yoga classes, and more.
I had heard mixed reviews about San Marcos from other travelers and a bit of research, however I am a firm believer in making my own opinions on places and giving them a chance regardless. Truthfully and to my surprise, I found my time there to be unenjoyable and felt completely out of my element despite having some personal engagement within the spiritual realm myself. I had originally planned on spending a full morning and partial afternoon in San Marcos, however I cut my time short to just over an hour and a half before heading on to San Juan.
WHERE TO STAY:
Unless you intend on participating in a retreat, I would limit visiting San Marcos to a day trip rather than basing there for an overnight. If you do opt to stay, there’s a handful of hotel, hostel, and rental options in town, just remember to compare properties and read reviews to find the one that best suits your style and preferences!
WHAT TO DO:
GO CLIFF JUMPING
The Reserva Natural del Cerro Tzankujil is located just west of San Marcos and is one of the village’s main attractions. It costs just 20Q (about $3 USD) to enter, and there you can take the short hiking trail to swimming areas with designated jumping platforms. This is one of the best areas on Lake Atitlán to swim as the water is crystal clear and distant from the boat docks.
If you’re looking to save a bit of money and have a more adventurous and isolated cliff jumping experience, you can do like I did and find a promising cliff while out on the lake with your paddleboard!
PRACTICE YOGA AT EAGLE’S NEST
Eagle’s Nest is a yogi’s paradise with a breathtaking platform overlooking the lake and daily classes for $20 USD. It’s one of the most famous resorts in San Marcos and attracts a diverse mix of travelers as their property features private rooms, dorms, and an on-site café. You can find out more on their lodging, events, and general information on their official webpage.
SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA
After a lackluster morning spent in San Marcos, I rode a tuk tuk over to one of the neighboring villages and instantly regained that heart-fluttering feeling that affirms my love for solo travel. San Juan La Laguna is a captivating, vibrant, and culturally rich village less frequently visited by tourists. It’s located on Lake Atitlán’s southwest shore, settled right next to the backpacker’s haven of San Pedro.
Walking around, you hear a symphony of chatter between Maya women, sounds from street musicians, and camera shutters from the tourists capturing images along the canopied streets. San Juan is clearly underrated
In my opinion, it’s the best place on the Lake to get a full scope of local Maya culture while indulging in traditional dishes at a bargain price. Considering the close proximity of the two towns, I’d recommend staying overnight in San Pedro, making the short journey one afternoon for a day trip to explore San Juan.
WHAT TO DO:
ENJOY COFFEE AT CAFÉ SAN JUAN
Coffee is an artform in Guatemala and Café San Juan is another quaint spot to sit and enjoy a cup. The rustic café is located just a few strides from the town’s Lancha dock and they roast their beans on-site, so you’ll be able to take a glimpse into the production processes while sipping on your coffee. They also sell packaged beans and small chocolates along with ceramics that you can take with you as a souvenir or gift. I stopped in here for just shy of an hour and was impressed not only with the menu items I tried, but also the service and hospitality from the local staff.
TAKE PICTURES ON CALLE DE LAS ARTES
Calle de las Artes is a newer attraction opened as of 2021 that sets San Juan apart from other villages around Lake Atitlán and adds a fitting touch of vibrant character. Most noticeably, colorful umbrellas, masks, vases, traditional drums, and and smaller decorations are strung to create an artistic canopy over the street.
This is a perfect destination to capture some beautiful and unique photos to commemorate your time on the lake! (tip: a best practice for getting fewer people in the background of your shots is to arrive in the early morning.)
EAT LUNCH ALMA DE COLORES
Perhaps the most socially impactful meal you’ll eat in Guatemala, Alma de Colores is a café and restaurant run by an Italian NGO with a mission of promoting labor inclusivity by integrating young adults with disabilities into the workplace. Their meals are prepared fresh with produce from a local organic farm and there’s vegan-friendly options to choose from. I enjoyed their grilled chicken, steamed vegetables, rice, and tortillas lunch plate for 60Q (about $7.50 USD).
SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA
Neighboring San Juan, San Pedro La Laguna is another smaller village on Lake Atitlán and a backpacker favorite due to its budget-friendly prices and international social scene. It’s named after one of the three giants overlooking the lake: Volcán San Pedro. One of the activity highlights that draws visitors to the lakeside town is the electric nightlife, however this tidbit drew me away from visiting after having just spent two months volunteering at a party hostel in Puerto Rico. I promise to share my first-hand thoughts if I get the chance to return to the lake, but for now will share the few recommendations I gathered from other travelers I crossed paths with!
WHERE TO STAY:
MR. MULLET’S
Mr. Mullet’s is a large party hostel in the heart of San Pedro with a reputation for its energetic social atmosphere. Features include oversized lockers, power outlets, and personal lights in the dorms, as well as high-speed internet, hot water showers, and various co-working and common spaces. They also host 2x1 happy hour specials daily and regular pool competitions, beer pong tournaments, and themed parties year round.
You can read reviews from travelers who have previously stayed at Mr. Mullet’s and book your own stay here.
WHAT TO DO:
PARTY
Partaking in a pub crawl is among the most popular activities for those traveling to San Pedro La Laguna. Most of the bars are within walking distance of one another along the main strip nicknamed “gringo trail.” Travelers can also join in the fun at The Deep End for a daytime pool party with regularly scheduled live music and feature BBQ on Sundays.
HIKE VOLCÁN SAN PEDRO
For a more challenging hike and panoramic views, you can climb 3-5 hours up Volcán San Pedro. It’s possible to find the way to the summit on your own, however wise to approach the hike with caution and consider using a guide. Although there is typically a police presence on the trail to ensure safety, there have been numerous reports of armed robberies on some of Guatemala’s lesser-climbed volcanoes including San Pedro.